Littleton Washington's Journal

Life in Antebellum Washington, Vigilante San Francisco & Confederate Richmond

By: Douglas Lee Gibboney

Across Mexico & Up the Mississippi

Always the adventure seeker, Littleton Washington decided not to return home by the Panama route that he had already traveled three times. Instead he opted to go by boat from San Francisco to Mexico's west coast where he journeyed overland to Vera Cruz. From there he took a ship to New Orleans and continued up the Mississippi River before completing the final leg of his trip by rail.

Littleton's desire to see something different was fulfilled, but perhaps not in the way that he expected. The wild country that he entered was a lawless place on the verge of civil war where a gringo could easily lose both his wallet and his life.

Since gaining independence from Spain in 1821, Mexico had gone through a series of unstable governments and lost half of its territory in a war with the United States. Power resided with the military, the Roman Catholic Church and wealthy landowners. In 1855, moderates and liberal reformers ousted the one-legged dictator Santa Anna, sending him into exile for the last time. But soldiers, clerics and conservatives opposed legislative changes made by the new government, and its president, Juan Alvarez, quickly resigned. In his place came Ignacio Comonfort, who had served in the previous administration as secretary of war.

Comonfort continued the reforms. To raise much-needed revenue, he confiscated many of the church's massive tax-free landholdings, leaving only those used in its day-to-day operations. Birth, death and marriage records were moved from the church to the government. In 1857 the country's leaders drafted a new constitution, which the church opposed, and the stage was set for the War of Reform.

Into this turmoil came Littleton Washington and his companions. They traveled well-armed, knowing the likelihood of danger. But they did not expect the bizarre series of encounters that they would find in this land where every bandit chief was a self-appointed general. The potential for a bloody revolt existed in each village and town on an almost nightly basis. By the time that they reached the relative safety of the capital, Mexico City, they had experienced more adventure than they desired.

Washington City D.C.July 20th 1858

I propose to narrate briefly my life from 26 Sept. 1857 (the date of my last entry) to the present time—I regret I have allowed so long a space to intervene & one too so eventful. It has been one of the most interesting & momentous periods in my life.

On Monday 5th Octo. 1857 started on the Steamer Golden Gate bound with others for Manzanillo, Mexico. The party to go through that country consisted consisted of Major John Caperton of Ky., Mr. Bell of Sacramento City, Cal. Col. S.W. Inge & Servant, and myself. On the Steamer we met Senors Carrasquedo & Torcedo, Mexican gentlemen whom we afsociated in our company as far as the City of Mexico. There was also on board Mr. Temple & lady of Los Angeles who travelled part of the way with us to Mexico & went as far as Colima.

Major Caperton & Col. Inge knew Spanish pretty well. The five Americans were all well armed in case of meeting robbers & we knew we could depend upon each other. We had had considerable experience as travellers & were accustomed to hardship & taking care of ourselves.

On board were Jose Y. Limantour & his wife with whom I became slightly acquainted. Col. J.C. Fremont⁵⁹ was on board. I never made nor cared to make his acquaintance. Mr. D.C. Broderick, U.S. Senator, was on board & we saw a good deal of him. Mr. J. Mora Mofs of San Francisco, a very agreeable gentleman, was on board. Gov. Issac I. Stevens,⁶⁰ whom I had previously known, was on board with his family. We became quite well acquainted. I formed a very favorable opinion of

⁶⁰ Issac Ingalls Stevens was a veteran of the Mexican War, Governor of the Washington Territory and a member of the U.S. House of Representatives. He rose to major general in the Union Army during the Civil War but was killed at the Battle of Chantilly, Virginia in 1862.
him. All these except Limantour were going to the Atlantic States. Limantour & his wife were going to Mexico (City) via Acapulco. This route we had determined not to take because of civil war in the Department of Guerrero, but it was understood that Limantour had peculiar facilities for getting through.

Col. Inge & myself had a stateroom together. This made us quite comfortable as we had no one else in. We sat too with the Captain, (Capt. W.H. Lappidge) at his table & thus got the best fare. Was sick the first day out, but managed to eat some dinner. I began studying Spanish so to be able to get along in Mexico. Our friend McAlpin was busy making arrangements for the boats to take us on the Lake & for the animals to take us at the other end to Colima. He told us fairly that the horses & mules would be mean, but the best we could get till we got to Colima. He fixed up his five shooter (next to Navy size) & as an expert in its use & perfectly cool, he was a very desirable addition to our party. Inge & Caperton had persuaded him to go up with us to Mexico & agreed to forward his views for steam navigation of the Lake. Our friend Carrasquedo had been robbed while asleep the night previous of his pistol, but somehow we could not think it any great lofs to our forces in case of meeting "ladrones."

I was struck in Manzanillo & everywhere throughout Mexico with the superiority of the women to the men in refinement, humanity, intelligence &, I believe, even in courage!

At 4 1/2 P.M. we got off in our boats. Inge, Caperton & Lacio a servant of McAlpin went in a canoe. Bell, McAlpin, Patrick (Col. Inge's servant), myself, & Antonio (an intelligent well-bred servant of McAlpins) went in a barge. The Mexicans were in another & Temple & his wife in a fourth. We started off with a light breeze & four oarsmen. All in fine spirits. Nothing could surpass the beauties of the sunset & the lake. On the one side were mountains & the sun on our right—the lake running coastwise & even its head being near to the sea.

The "esprit" of the oarsmen led them into a boat race which after a few miles subsided into a more regular progression. The night soon came upon us. We heard the sounds of strange & curious birds—some like the grunting of a hog & others like that of laughing. We had a
lunch at a point pretty near our destination & stopped for some hours for sleep & rest. My posture was an awkward one & sleep came slowly & scantily to my aid. We were out in the lake. The songs of the boatmen during the measured strokes of the oar which had so pleased & entertained me died out & the boatmen readily sank into slumber fatigued with their labors.

Monday 19th October

By day light we got under way & neared the shore. We had come forty miles. We reached the "Rineon" & landed amid a dense growth of tropical foilage. The air was now close & heavy. After a disagreable detention of several hours—the "animals" came along & mean enough they were in all conscience.

We made the best of our animals & started off gaily—Inge led. Bell & I followed—riding through a dense wood & after a while we struck the regular road to Colima. We came after a few miles to a hacienda where we stopped & got something to eat. While here Mr. Motz, a banker of Colima, came by with a specie train of which he had charge. There were the mules—some 240 pack mules—a large number of servants & about 90 soldiers on foot with muskets. There was $700,000 in silver bound for the next steamer going up. The servants—all Mexicans rode well—had good horses & were gaily attired. Each one carried his "machete" or sword, an "escopette" or short musket, and some had pistols. The soldiers looked mean enough & went in a half trot. We learned that a train recently had been attacked by robbers & that they had been beat off.

Mr. Motz was a German gentleman & Inge & Caperton bore letters to him. He was very polite & kind & promised to send one or two of his best servants back after us to Colima, who would reach there as soon as we, to his partner Mr. Tomalen with a request to show us every attention & aid in his power. His best servants & all or nearly all the best servants of Colima were with the train, but he would send back several to go with us on whom we could rely. This pleased us very much & we went on our way.

Shortly after we reached the Rio del Almeria—a bold & swiftly running stream. We were taken over in canoes & our baggage in a scow. Here we rested awhile at some huts & I took a swim in the river. I found the water cool & the current strong.

We had a beautiful ride that afternoon on a plateau—we pafsed near the river. Here we met a good deal of the "cactus" growing very high & beautiful. The road hereabouts was rather desolate as to habitations & was a haunt of robbers; but we had come to the opinion that there had been a good deal of exaggeration as to the "ladrones" & that our numbers & arms would be a guarantee against any attack. We had made up our minds to "put them through" in case of an attack & felt full confidence in our ability to do it.

About dusk we reached the village of Cahitlan—our stopping place for the night. This was a miserable collection of thatched cottages—a protection against rain merely. The inhabitants seemed numerous & were living in the same style of "vegetation" that had characterized the people of Manzanillo. We managed to get some supper. "Carne Seco"⁶¹—tortillas & cocoa milk with some tea was our repast. The tea was our own prepared by Patrick. We slept on a reed bed in the open air. I found it quite comfortable. I laid my pistols under my pillow & my rifle by my side; my companions by my side or near me.

Tuesday 20th October

We rose before 4 A.M. Eat oranges & got some coffee. There was no public house here & our fare was scanty for travellers. By 5 A.M. we were off riding through the woods. These were beautiful & the finest farms lay on either hand. The haciendas showed no signs of energy or thrift & some were abandoned. The country was rich as cream & the land adapted to sugar, cotton & all tropical products. By mid-day we came in sight of the mountains & some lay on our road side. We were however still in the terra valiente & the day became very oppressive. At noon we reached an abundant spring & stream where we stopped, rested in the shade & bathed. The water flowed from the hill side & was deliciously cool.

The City is 80 miles from Manzanillo & 40 from the "Rineon" or head of the Lake. It is built in regular Spanish style. The walls thick, tiled roofs & studded with trees & vegetation. A river runs through over which are several bridges. There are two regular plazas. We were on the new plaza. On the principal one there is a fine old Church—looking antique & imposing. There is, I think, a wall about the town.

There had been a few weeks before our arrival in Colima a successful "pronunciamento"⁶³ which had been put down by the Govt. troops. It was begun by a man named Veja who was a dismifsed policeman. The Govr. Alvarez, however, pitied his family & gave him a large donation. The very next day he was afsassinated by the ungrateful wretch. This man, we found, was to be shot the afternoon of our arrival & we went to see it.

With us went Mr. Forbes, an Englishman, & Mr. Rupell, an American gentleman who had called on us & who lived in Colima. From them we learned much of the late revolution. The soldiers had joined in seduced by a promise of Veja that they should be allowed to sack the town. This they had partially done; but luckily for the wealthy foreigners & residents the insurgents offered the command to Col. Jose Washington y Velasco. This gentleman was of the Church party & had incurred the displeasure of Comonfort⁶⁴ & was then a prisoner in

⁶³ Spanish for insurrection

⁶⁴ Ignacio Comonfort, a moderate, was elected President of Mexico in July 1857. As the political situation deteriorated, he formed a short-lived alliance with General Felix Zuloaga. He resigned in January 1858 and Zuloaga took over as president. Comonfort fled to the United States. In 1863, he became commander of the forces resisting French intervention in Mexico and was killed later that year in a guerrilla attack. See The Oxford History of Mexico.
Colima when the revolt broke out. He accepted the command with the intention of restoring order & protecting property. This he did & the foreigners in Colima expressed themselves in the highest terms grateful to him.

On the arrival of the Govt. troops from Morelia he had surrendered without a combat the place to them & had been sent on (as) a prisoner to the City of Mexico. My companions had feared from the fact of my bearing the same name that I would be arrested & suspected as a relative & ally of this Col. Washington & they had insisted on my changing my name. This I had steadily refused to do. I had no fears of suspicion even from this suspicious people. I spoke but little Spanish, had witnesses to stand by me & bore moreover among other letters & papers one from the Archbishop at San Francisco under his Seal.

I was pleased to find though that Col. Jose Washington stood so high in Colima for integrity & honor.

We found a large crowd at the execution. The prisoner was led past us blindfolded & with arms tied. He walked between two priests repeating his last prayers in a singularly firm voice. It seemed to me that his bearing was firm & calm for so bad a man. Had he been a patriot he could not have indicated more firmnefs. He was tied to the fatal crofs. A platoon fired at a distance of two yards. He moved. Then another & finally it was necessary for a soldier to put his piece almost to his person. A bucket of water stood by to dash on his clothes in case of his taking fire. So passed to his account the soul of this unfortunate man.

There were a number of soldiers present who defended the street on either hand & prevented all approach. The crowd which numbered many women were very quiet & it seemed to me that their sympathies lay with the prisoner. They did not look very friendly upon us, but this may have been imagination.

After dinner I walked to the main plaza. By this time McAlpin had got in. We had found a large crowd on the bridge & they had been sullen & disrespectful. They seemed in a humor for a row & barely allowed him to pafs. Our hostess told us a pronunciamento was expected that night. We began to think that the drunken & excited crowd might turn their rage upon us. The indications—their lowering looks—
their conduct at the bridge, the absence of our Mexican friends who had got other quarters—all foreboded an attack.

We had a pretty strong castle. A Mexican house is a fortification—the walls 3 feet thick & the windows barred with iron & well above the ground. We thought we could make a good fight—so after having the heavy outside door carefully fastened, we laid down to rest. Our shutters we left open on account of the heat. The weather was warm to us, as Colima is only some 500 feet above the sea level. We laid down on tables, no beds to be had. About 2 A.M. some of the city guard knocked & told us to shut our shutters as there were "ladrones" about. This we did & slept without further interruption.

Wednesday 21st October

We rose early & made our breakfast Mexican fashion of cakes & "chocolate." I had never drank chocolate so good as this or even to compare with it. The Mexicans excel in its preparation & a single cup suffices to stay the stomach until 12 A.M. even for a traveller. Took a bath & swim for a trifling charge.

We breakfasted by invitation with Mr. Adolpho Tomalen—having first made our arrangements for travel the next day. The house was one of the best Mexican houses & a model for comfort. A large court within & flowers & the rooms deliciously cool. Messrs. Russell & Forbes met us at breakfast. This was a splendid repast. We had almost endless courses of dishes & fruits & wines of the best quality. I here met & tried many tropical fruits I had not before heard of—among them the "chirimoya"⁶⁵—nearly double the size of a tumbler. The coffee was grown in the vicinity & we all pronounced it the best we had ever drank—It is known as the "Colima coffee" but there is not enough raised to supply the "home demand" even. Such is the indolence of the Mexicans!

We were told the distance to Colima by Lagoon Road from Manzanillo was 28 1/2 leagues. A Mexican league is equal to 2 3/4 American miles.

After dinner & sitting awhile I went with Mr. Russell to see Ramon de la Vega, the Civil Governor of Colima. He received us very politely.

This evening Caperton & myself had an unpleasant difficulty & high words.

I retired early, but a board bed, fleas, etc. prevented my sleeping much.

Thursday 22d October 1857

We rose at 4 A.M. Took our light breakfast of chocolate & by 5 A.M. our party got out of Colima bound for Zapotlan some 80 miles off. Our party consisted of six Americans named, (plus) Carrasquedo & Torcedo. We had 3 baggage mules & four servants. Mr. Temple stayed behind in Colima. I had a fair horse & we went off gaily enough.

Our route laid through a rich & well watered country. The streams, bold, clear & abundant ran acrofs the road. They coursed down from the Volcano of Colima which was in full view ahead & to the right of which of our road lay. This volcano has two peaks. The day was beautiful & the outline of the mountain fully defined. Being 12000 feet high & the surrounding country some 500 only above sea level, it appears of course very grand and imposing. The road from Colima lies at first among farms & villages. Here we saw the "maguay" plant growing very abundantly. From this the "pulche" is made. The country was rich & highly adapted to sugar & coffee. We passed many haciendas devoted to both.

In two or three hours our road began to ascend rapidly & by ten we had got out into the plain & nearer to the volcano & some 3000 feet above the sea level. Riding now became a pleasure & we no longer
felt the heat oppressive. The fields were carpeted with flowers similar to California & every thing conspired to raise the spirits of the party. A young American named Reynolds living above had joined us at Colima—intending to go with us some 60 miles. From his account it appeared that the robbers were numerous & daring. I rode along chatting with the servants. They were all excellent horsemen, polite, attentive & managed the pack animals admirably. Their leader was a young man called Juan & a most careful & reliable servant.

About 11 A.M. we came in sight of the little town of Tornilao situated just above a large stream which ran down from the mountains. The country is cool & elevated. This was our first "barranea" or steep ravine. This name is given to the crossing of a deep bed of a river or ravine. The descent is usually very steep & winding—a serious obstacle to stage transportation. We took a nap at Tornilao, dined heartily or more properly breakfasted & by 4 P.M. started off again.

Our route brought us near to the base of the mountain & the scenery on both sides was of the most sublime character. I have never beheld anything superior. A rain storm came up & the dark massive clouds lent an addition charm & gloom to the prospect. The rain did us little damage. We urged the animals & got in early at San Marcos where we were to pafs the night. This was a hacienda & a noble one as respects the land. The farm is some 6000 acres & admirably adapted to sugar & coffee.

We went into the kitchen & watched the making of "tortillas" the cooking awhile. We got a good dinner & laid ourselves down on mats spread upon the brick pavement for sleep.

Friday October 23d

We were up betimes at 4. Got our cafe & chocolate. The guides & "Juan" on whom we relied (he having been specially recommended by Mr. Tomalen) now reported that we must be careful as we were approaching the large barraneas where robbers might be expected to attack us. We accordingly put on fresh caps⁶⁶ & kept our party well together—the baggage in the middle.

After a little rest we started on. The movements of several who had joined had become very suspicious. Two rode on either side of me & showed a disposition to get hold of my rifle. I kept my right hand on my pistol in my pocket & with my other held the rifle & guided my horse. I felt perfectly cool & eyed my men keenly. One of them could not stand it & rode off. No attack was made, but the fellow to whom I had lent my rifle sometimes rode ahead & then fell back again & joined us. It seemed as if he was in communication with others. It is very likely that our constant vigilance alone prevented an attack.

The country had become some five thousand feet high & we had gone through pine forests. The pine indicates in the tropics a high elevation. At ten or eleven, we reached the little village of Chinchenka. This was in the bottom of a deep barranea through which ran a large stream. Here we stopped for breakfast. This was prepared after a long time. We eat plentifully of the "carne seco" which was hanging up when we arrived about the door. We were advised here that our suspicious stranger of the morning had pafsed on avowing his intention to organize a party & rob us that day.

Our salt at dinner was taken from the Lagoon at Manzanillo & we were told it furnished 1/4 of all the salt used in Mexico.

Not caring to be belated in getting to Zapotlan we started off
pretty soon, keeping well together & a careful lookout. The Country was full of woods, ravines & well adapted both to the movements & concealment of robbers. Irritated at the behavior & reported declaration of the rascal who had hung on to our party & seemed to have a fancy for riding at my side, I declared that if he came up again I would order him off & shoot him in event of his refusal or failure to leave us. In this Inge & the others backed me.

Soon he came as with us. Reining up my horse I presented a pistol to his breast & ordered him to leave; he hesitated & I was on the point of shooting him when Bell rode up & interposed and the fellow rode off. He evinced a great deal of fear & crofsed his arms on his breast in token of submission. He had a very villainous countenance. It is very likely that this proceeding arrested his operations for the day & saved us from an attack—for later in the day Bell & Caperton saw a party of a dozen armed with lances & who retreated as our men advanced on them.

The country here became sterile & was full of cactus & scrub pine. The road was desolate & for some ten miles we met no habitations. When within 6 or 8 miles of Zapotlan, the lands greatly improved & good farms were visible. We knew that there was to be this day a religious festival & fair at Zapotlan & had been told that the Indian population of the neighboring country were wont to take great interest in these festivals. We accordingly met great numbers of these Indians returning to their country walking & riding. The women were beautifully proportioned & handsome.

We had by this time ascertained the existence of a great deal of disaffection to Comonfort's Govt. & that a simultaneous rising by the Church party might be looked for every day. I could not omit to connect this fact with the proposed festival & was inclined to view it partly as a political demonstration.

The country about Zapotlan is mountainous & striking in its scenery. The town is smaller than Colima, not near so compact & numbers about 15000 people. At this time, however, there was double that number in it. The main street was thronged with people & overhung with lamps to be lit up at night. It was already dusk & we pushed on rapidly;—feeling some anxiety about accommodations for the night. On reaching our mesen we were told that no sleeping place could be had but the Court Yard & that we could get a meal at a restaurant near the Plaza. This we went to & procured a meal. I got a tolerable supper.

Meantime I had become acquainted with Senor Ortiz of Guadalaxara, who was a guest in the house. I found he spoke English well & was an intelligent & polished gentleman. He had a large room & insisted upon our party sharing it with him.

I then strolled around the fair. Everything was bustle & gayety. Music, fancy articles, fruits, lemonade, mescal, pulche, monte banks & all the machinery of a Mexican fair were mixed up & the throng so dense that one could hardly pafs. Our party drew a good deal of attention. On the Pacific slope it is a rarity to see an American. I was struck with the beauty & grace of the women. I have never seen women generally so handsome & finely formed as those of Zapotlan The lamps were lit & what with music & booths & the throng the place was fairly alive.

Returning to our quarters I got some pulche & drank it for the first time. I did not like it then, but afterwards became fond of it. I was greatly fatigued:—having ridden forty miles that day & wearied with the excitement & constant watch we had to keep up. So I laid down. After a while Inge & Bell came in & reported that the crowd seemed excited & that they had some of them singing the song of "mueren los extranos."⁶⁷ They were clear we would be attacked that night. I felt no alarm & confiding in our arms, strength of position & would gladly have gone to sleep; but Inge was excited & walked up & down the Court refusing to lay down. So I got but little rest. But we had no attack. Mescal & pulche were our allies—rather than our enemies.

Thus far the country appeared exceedingly populous—especially so about Colima. We met a great number of trains—packed mules laden with all kinds of mdse. & produce bound for Colima & pafsed others going up. Sometimes there were fifty packed mules & the roads quite alive with travel & trade.

By one in the morning we were off. We soon got out of town—being on the qui vive as we had been told to look out for robbers. Our servants, Juan & the others, we had paid & they had gone back with the animals to Colima well content with their trip. We had a stage & were to go 120 miles that day to Guadalaxara. Eight horses were attached to the vehicle & we had a driver, a "conductor of the diligence" who rode beside him, and an attendant who rode on top, but was on his feet half the time throwing stones & clods of dirt at the mules to make them go faster. This was necessary for the two leaders who could not be reached by the whip conveniently. The conductor & driver were gaily dressed Mexican fashion & had the plated button to their pantaloons. The driver wore a buckskin jacket. He was master of his art & drove exceedingly well.

Going out of town some men were observed by the roadside, but though their movements appeared suspicious they made no attempt to stop us. We took them notwithstanding for ladrones & it was not a bad guess on general principles.

After an hour or so when it became daylight, I took an outside seat so as to watch the road & not let the party be taken by surprise or the stage stopped. I had little confidence in the Mexican drivers & had heard they were usually the accomplices of the robbers. Our experience of the preceding day had roused up the whole party & had satisfied us that there were plenty of robbers & that nothing short of vigilance would guard us from surprize. It was resolved to have one person, at least, always on the deck to watch out & I concluded to take the post myself believing that Patrick from his entire ignorance of the language & want of intelligence could not be depended upon.

The country appeared very fertile & covered with fine farms.

After daylight we went on very rapidly—the road descending. We came to the town of Sayula about sun up & got our light breakfast of chocolate & cakes. This place is about half as large as Zapotlan. The country around is rich & populous. At Sayula a gentleman got in clothed in citizen's dress of a striking military figure & whom Inge took for Genl. Blancarte. As I rode outside I saw nothing of him. We sped along rapidly. I watched the road closely.
After a few miles a young gentleman armed with two of Dean & Adams pistols appeared on the road side. He appeared well known to the Conductor, who gave him a seat by my side. I thought his appearance suspicious & took him for a gentleman robber & so thought those inside. We all had an impression that we should see trouble that day & I kept a strict watch on my companion. I was alone on deck with four Mexicans—rather heavy odds. The conductor had opposed my sitting on top; but I insisted & retained my seat.

We soon noticed that the conductor & our new travellers evinced a strong desire to get on rapidly & were giving bounties to stimulate the relays on the road & get additional horses.

After a few miles from Zayula, we came to a beautiful lake on the right. The road kept by the side of this some 50 miles. On the right lay mountains looking much like those of California in early Spring. The day was fine & the rapid rate of travel very inspiriting.

Further observation of my fellow traveller began to impress me in his favor & a little talk confirmed me. About this time I had begun to suspect some revolutionary movement in this eagernefs to reach Guadalaxara & Inge told me from within that the gentleman within had admitted himself to be Blancarte & said he was going to get up a "pronunciamento" in Guadalaxara & that the rising would be simultaneous in the towns behind & ahead of us. This was piquant & we began to think we were in luck for seeing all about Mexico—pronounciaments included.

We stopped at a roadside "Mesen" about 12 o'clock—got a fine breakfast—leaving in half an hour. Another token of expectation! We bounded off rapidly. Our friend within became communicative, denounced Comonfort, proposed to us all to join him as a "Guard of honor"—particularly desired my accession—this to Inge who translated to me.

Meantime I noticed that my comrade wore a handkerchief by the side of his hat as a sort of signal & that during the afternoon he exchanged it for a piece of crepe. We met numerous parties on the road whom he exchanged signals with. He told me there (were) many robbers on the road & he with the Conductor pointed out at least fifty
altogether. Half that number were lolling about in the street of a large pueblo we pafsed through called "Santa Anna" pueblo.

The country generally was thickly settled & the road full of pafsengers & pack trains.

These were some very desolate places indeed. Here crofses were numerous showing the spot where a traveller had been murdered. This is noticeable all along the highways of Mexico & we had met them on our way up to Colima.

About dusk we came to a favorite haunt of the robbers. The stage descends to pafs a little ravine & here at the foot the hills are broken so that a dozen robbers could hide & at an instant surround the coach on all sides. A high mountain on the right hand side gave them a point of observation for many miles.

During the afternoon Carrasquedo proposed to me as we were walking a few steps to arrest & capture Blancarte;—intimating that Comonfort would do anything I desired. I declined;—telling him in French that I would take no part in the politics of the country & would only serve my own country.

About 6 P.M. Inge proposed an exchange & I got inside to get some sleep. We were now in the "Arenal"—an exposed place; but had pafsed so many robbers that we apprehended no danger. I was dosing away when I was aroused by a discharge of fire arms. Three horsemen had rode past us & at some distance back had fired at us. This was returned by our Mexicans on top & by Inge. The former fired three times.

We all got ready for a renewal of the affair:— looking on this merely as a beginning. Three or four others came on rapidly—armed with the short musket escopette & with an order to halt "alto y"⁶⁸ given three times (as) they came on firing. I saw nothing—was not on the side of the stage attacked & could not get out for Blancarte who bent forward & pressed me to my seat. I thought we were outnumbered & supposed our antagonists were firing the shots which were those of Inge & the Mexicans above.

I held my pistol at the window expecting every moment an attack

Several of us went—Carrasquedo with us & reported to the prefect what had happened in order that the other robbers might be pursued & caught.

Our quarters at the Mesen were not good, but we liked the fare & intended to take it easy. Our French host was very obliging—had a wife young & pretty to take care of everything & she (had) a married sister, both Mexican ladies. There was also a negro who had lived in the U.S. & been with the Army in Mexico. The news of our affair made a great sensation. We got a supper & after a walk by moonlight in the plaza I went to sleep.

Sunday 25th October

I was up early looking at the town. Walked to Church of San Augustin & heard the Mafs. The music was very fine & this Church as well as the others in Guadalaxara very beautiful & richly decorated. The Cathedral is a noble building & I think the handsomest architecturally I ever beheld. Guadalaxara has about 120,000 people or more. It has a number of splendid public buildings—Churches, Convents, Factories, Colleges, private houses, plazas & an Alameda.

I consider it the handsomest city in Mexico. The women are very beautiful, graceful & dress with great effect. They manage their rebosos or shawls to great advantage. A river runs through the lower part of the town & along side of this is a fine paseo or drive. The convents are
immense. I was struck with the number of priests. They dress peculiarly & their hat is different from any thing I have seen.

After breakfast, we went around to the Judge's office & gave our testimony as to the affair of the night previous. We were interrogated, the testimony drawn up & subscribed. There was a professor in the College who had lived in Louisiana & spoke English well who acted as Interpreter & Notary. It looked to me very much like a farce. Two of the robbers were caught & were outside. I never saw more villainous visages. I subsequently learned that the protestations of innocence by these men had been taken & they were about the streets the very next day.

I bought here in this city a beautiful serape for $6. I have it now & one of my fair friends at the Mesen sewed it up for me.

I eat here the prickly pear⁶⁹, but did not become fond of it.

At breakfast we saw Capt. Nye who had come through with a friend from the City of Mexico. We learned that the roads were full of robbers & the country feverish & excited.

At night I went to the Theatre. The play was in Spanish, of course, but the house was a mean one & the play without spirit. The audience was quite small.

Monday 26 October 1857

Rose at 7 1/2. Coffee. Went to mafs at the Cathedral. The music was very fine. Most of the devotees appeared absorbed, but I noticed one exceedingly tall & beautiful whose attention wandered in my own direction.

I was anxious to see the Bp. of Guadalaxara & went with the letter of Bp. Alemany, but was unsuccessful in seeing him.

Wrote this afternoon to Mary. Most of the day I spent in examining the City & walking about—noting the difference of National Customs.

Tuesday 27t October 1857

Wrote today to P.G. Washington & to Nugent a long letter for publication—describing our journey to that point.

There were about 2000 Govt. troops in Guadalaxara, but it was understood the people were disaffected to Comonfort.

Immediately around Guadalaxara the country is not at all fertile. I was surprised to find so large & wealthy a city located there & on enquiry was told that at the time of the revolution which declared independence the population was only some 15 or 20 thousand, but that owing to the almost continual state of war & insecurity since then wealthy people had moved there for protection, and that thus the city had been built up.

This evening we were startled by the sound of a musket hard by. It appeared that a woman, with a child in her arms, had been shot dead for some political or party cry. This disgusted us all exceedingly. We had by this time got several nos. of the "Extraordianary" accounts of the disorder & crime every where prevalent. Robbers had full sway everywhere & a party of 300 was on the high road ahead. The Annual Fair of San Juan de Lagos—to which persons resorted from all Mexico—had been discontinued on account of the insecurity of the roads. Inge declared that we would have to fight our road through all the way to Mexico (City) & most of us felt a little gloomy at the prospect. One or two fights at the lowest might be counted on & next time we might not get on so well.

This night our host gave us a champagne entertainment & was very demonstrative. William got gloriously drunk. I retired but slept little.

Guadalaxara is in the table land of Mexico—at an elevation of some four or five thousand feet I judged.

Wednesday 28 October 1857

We were up at 4. Had chocolate. Walked to the Stage office. It was quite dark yet. William with us & having a good deal of gofsip to narrate—some a little scandalous. By 5 A.M. we were dashing off at a fine rate & it was as much as I could do to keep my seat. Leaving the main city, we came to the town over the river & finally got out on the
high road. Riding outside of a Mexican diligence, it is necessary to be very careful in holding on & dodging the trees. I had too a good deal of trouble to put the rifle & shot so I could get hold of them & yet fix them so as not to fall off the stage or go off.

We were bound this day to La Venta—30 Leagues distant. We passed during the day 2 fine rivers—the Rio Grande & the Merced. For 25 miles the country is very sterile & rocky—the road not overgood. It was the old Vice Royal—built while Mexico was a Spanish dependency & though originally very good had never been repaired. After 25 or 30 miles, the country rises & improves. We passed some large orange groves. The day was like may & very beautiful. Our trip had been undertaken at the beginning of the dry season & we were safe therefore both from dust & rain.

We came to a District of the country similar to the Red Land Dist. of Va. I noticed that the fences were made of stone & in all Mexico I did not observe but one wooden fence. Some were made of the cactus & in towns that is common about the suburbs.

We pafsed two large towns—Zapotlanejo & Tepatitlan. The stage stopped in both for relays & we were beset by a crowd of cripples & unfortunates, the victims of syphilis, small pox, etc.

Our driver was an excellent one. We drove 6 or 8 horses or mules. When the latter were brought out, it was an indication that the road ahead was a bad one.

We had this evening a slight rain. Our friends inside were greatly taken with a fellow passenger who called himself General Chocolate & avowed himself as part of the league against Comonfort. I was introduced to him, but he talked no English. My Spanish would answer only for servants & I would not risk it with gentlemen.

An accident to the stage made us late in getting in to La Venta. Here we found a fine stopping place—good dinner, rooms & beds. This was the first good bed I had enjoyed in Mexico.

Thursday 29 Oct. 1857

Rose at five & off by half past 5. Rode a long distance in a fog. I did not like it much as it intercepted my view of the road. This day I saw a great deal of the cactus—many with fruit upon them. Passed through a sterile rocky country that morning. The day too was very hot. About 12 1/2 P.M. we came to San Juan de los Lagos. This is on the Rio Triste & is quite a fine town. It is the place of the great annual fair for all Mexico—but this year it had been suspended on account of political battles & the state of the roads.

In the afternoon we passed a table mountain:—flat on the top & similar (Caperton said) to those in Gila Country.

This day Inge told me that Genl. Chocolate had taken a great fancy to me & proposed, if I would join his party & stay in Mexico, that I should enjoy a Colonel's Commission. Inge & Bell strongly & repeatedly urged me to accept this—a brilliant & advantageous offer; but it was contrary to my judgment and the policy of neutrality I had marked out for myself. So I declined accepting. Inge, however, pledged to Genl. Chocolate his full sympathy & aid. He, in fact, was in a state of excitement all through Mexico that impaired his reason, manners & seemed to bring out all that was vicious about him. At times he could be very agreeable, & his habits of intelligence & observation, with his courage made him a desirable companion. Caperton was out of health & temper the whole trip & though ordinarily a worthy man we could not get along together in a friendly way.

We made 90 miles & got in to Lagos about 7. This is a town of some 10,000 people. We learned a "pronunciamento" was threatened that night. We took a walk in the plaza by moonlight, heard the music & after a while came back & got a good night's sleep.

Friday, 30 October 1857

We were off by 5 A.M. & on a fine road. We got from the driver & others that the town of Lagos had been taken the night previous by the pronunciados & the soldiers taken in their "cuartels"⁷⁰ with the lasso & knife. It was said that 150 were slain. I ought to state that after leaving Guadalaxara the same means were resorted to—the knife & the lasso. It was hard to sift the truth from these rumors.

In the afternoon pursuing our journey through the fertile valley—which continues some 200 miles—we came to Silao which number 15,000 people. Here there was a Church said to be one of the finest in Mexico but we had no time to see it. We hurried through the place. Genl. Chocolate had stopped at Lagos & his place was taken by a Genl. D—who had been a noted robber chief. He got out of the stage & as he got in again & we were rapidly leaving,—we heard a noise & sound of bells which indicated a row. He declared it to be a "pronunciamento" which he had set on foot. So said Inge to me from the inside.

We had only 66 miles to make Guanaxuato & by the afternoon we came to Marfil the outer town. Guanaxuato is pitched among the mountains & is the centre of the richest silver district in Mexico. The city is a fine one & has some 70 or 80,000 people. We saw a good deal of the place & saw the mint & one of the places for reducing the ore.

Saturday 31st October

We had 120 miles to make to Queretaro & accordingly started at 2 A.M. Went through Marfil & Irapuato. During the morning we kept a sharp look out as the neighborhood is noted for robbers. We saw some indications & the driver of a mule train warned us to look out for some men ahead by the side of the road. We encountered no attack however.

We came to Salamanea where we breakfasted. The town has 12,000 inhabitants. The country adjacent is rich—well tilled—much of it planted in corn. Our next town was Celaya with 20,000 people. We noted here a fine bridge. The country continued fertile until within a few miles of Queretaro. This we reached 6 1/2 P.M. Got our dinner & walked to the Plaza. There was while Bell & I were together a rush in the crowd. I could not tell the cause of it. Got to bed early.
Sunday Novr. 1st

Rose late. Got chocolate & then went to Church & from there to market.

This city is a pretty one & has some 60,000 inhabitants—many fine churches—public buildings—handsome private abodes & an alameda or park.

Caperton & Bell now took the ground that we had been dwelling in the land of romance—that Genl. Chocolate, Blancarte & D were all mythical characters—that there had been no pronunciaments, etc. Inge had become alarmed or professed to be on account of his declarations against Comonfort & proffers of aid to the revolutionary party. He declared he would not risk himself in the City of Mexico; but would take a mule & get down by a side road to Vera Cruz & there take the steamer. And he declared to me that Carrasquedo had endorsed this view. He also said that I was in peril. I felt no alarm whatever, but believing that Inge had said a great more of my purposes & feelings than facts justified, I took occasion to inform Carrasquedo that he had no right to speak for me & that my course was altogether neutral & that I wanted nothing to do with the politics of the country.

In the afternoon Torcedo & I rode out in a carriage together to see the Alemeda & Aqueduct. The latter is one of the best public works in Mexico. At night took a walk in the plaza. It seemed as if the whole town was there.

Monday Novr. 2d 1857

We rose about 3 A.M. & were taking our chocolate when we heard the sound of fire-arms. In a few minutes it was ascertained that the town was attacked by Mejia⁷¹ with six hundred men & that the struggle was then going on with the Govt. troops. The owners of the House & the Administrator of the Diligence decided that for the present we should remain where we were & not start until the firing was over. The gates were closely barred. We went up on top of the house & saw the firing. This was carried on very much from the tops of houses, the steeples of

Our part of the town appeared to be entirely in possession of the insurgents who rallied to the cry of "Viva la religione!" A party would sweep by now & then as if for a charge & as Caperton & Bell were at a window several escopettes were fired at them. A gang of reprobates began to gather in front of the Diligence office & it seemed as if the moment of success would be chosen for an attack on the Hotel. We felt a good deal of anxiety as Mejia was a robber chief & his party pretty much of the same stripe. Inge proposed to send a message to the Governor placing our services at his disposition. This I steadily refused to have anything to do with—not caring for either party.

We eat our breakfast however with a good grace & I had taken previously a good nap. We determined to defend the place, if attacked, & as the day advanced we began to grow more uneasy about spending the night there.

About eleven the sound of the bells indicated the triumph of one of the parties. This we soon learned was Mejia & the Adminstrador at once sent a message for permission to leave. In two hours he returned:—not having been able to see Mejia. About 3 P.M. we determined to set out & run the gauntlet at the risk of being stopped or fired on. I took the outside seat with Patrick. The crowd was in good humor & luckily we got out without interruption. I did not feel quite easy however until we had got five or six miles out of town & ascended a high hill beyond. The evening was beautiful & I felt rejoiced in being out of Queretaro. Had we stayed there that night we might have had trouble from the robbers & plunderers.

Queretaro & Geranaxuato & the cities of Leon, Celaya, etc. are I suppose some 6 or 7,000 feet above the sea level & in the broad belt of table land running through Mexico. We kept on rapidly, the ground rising higher & higher. We took supper at a town which I suppose was San Juan del Rio & pushed on that night. The elevation was very great & it was hard to keep warm even with an overcoat & serape.

About ten we came to a village where a fair was being held. There was a little theatre—booths—monte banks—fruits, cakes & music. Met talking with Inge a beggar who said he had once taken the City of Guadalaxara. His name was Genl. Carnero & just then he was very glad to take a swig at a bottle of Mescal. It was difficult to get rid of him. We pushed (on;) the weather being very cold & what with that & want of sleep I suffered a good deal. Very much fatigued, we finally got in about 3 in the night at the hacienda—which was our resting place. It was called, I think, Arroyosarco. We slept perhaps half an hour when we were roused for chocolate & the journey of 90 miles to Mexico (City). We had come about that distance that evening & night.

Tuesday Novr. 3d 1857 ~ my birthday.

We were off in coach at 5 A.M. A Mexican gentleman asked me to exchange with him & I agreed to do it so as to get some sleep. In a mile or two the stage was upset. None inside were hurt, but the Mexican on top was so seriously injured that he did not get over it for weeks. What would have been my fate if in the exhausted condition I was in I had been on top? With some trouble, we got the stage righted & went on our way.

We pafsed through a beautiful & smiling country that day. In the afternoon we struck the valley of Mexico—so justly famed the world over. I rode outside & got a good view of Popocatepetl & Istaccihuatl covered with snow at their tops. Soon the city became visible. We got in about seven P.M. & entered the fine Hotel "Iturbide."

Sam Baren, Ivor, Morner, Mr. John S. Cripps, Capt. J.B. G. Isham, Mr. Frances Pakenham, secy to the English Legation, Mr. Geo. F. Henderson & Dr. Gibson both English gentlemen. Dined with Morner.

Cripps & Morner were old acquaintances of mine. I walked with the former by moonlight to the Plaza where he pointed out the National Palace⁷² & the Cathedral. The plaza was a noble one & its walks crowded with people.

Went to Davidson's Bank. Walked with Cripps to see the Mineria or National College of Miners—to the Alameda & Pasea. Here I saw the equestrian statute of Chas. 4th of Spain & afar the Castle of Chapultepec.

Thursday 5t Novr. `57

Saw a good deal of the town. Went to the Opera where we heard a good piece. The Theatre is a large one & was crowded. Tickets were $2.00. I cannot recite in detail what I did & saw in Mexico (City). I was a good deal with Cripps & Pakenham. The latter I became much pleased with. We rode out one Sunday morning—going by the Paseo to the Westward & around by Molino del Ray, Chapultepec & Tacubay & returned by the Paseo. We rode some 16 miles & for most of the ride met no one on the road. This on account of the robbers who infested the vicinity.

We pafsed the very place where our army was mowed down at the Molino ~ Pakenham & the English gentlemen of Mexico were attentive & hospitable. So too was Morner & Cripps. With the latter, I went to see the "Sacrificial Stone" of the Aztecs & to the Castle of Chapultepec.⁷³ We rode out by the Garita de Belen which Daitman took & got to the Castle in the afternoon. Here sauntered through the grounds. I saw the magnificent cypresses of Montezuma & went with him up the hills where 10 years since our countrymen rushed with impetuous valor.

On reaching the gate we were received with great politenefs & a cadet detailed who showed us every object of interest. We saw many marks of cannon balls & bullets. From the top we obtained a beautiful view of the City & valley of Mexico. We returned by the Garita San Cosmo by which Worth's division entered.

We all dined with Mr. Forsyth by invitation. I was not with the party when they were presented to Comonfort.

Admiral Napoleon Zerman was about having his case finally tried by the Supreme Court & we went to hear his defence which he pronounced with considerable fluency and assurance. He took Inge & myself to see the Signorina Cortesi—the prima donna of the Italian opera. There was a musical soiree & we were very kindly received. Here I saw something of the Mexican ladies. The company of different races—English, Mexican, Italian, American, & French & German.

I went out one Sunday with Cripps & Pakenham to see the town of Guadalupe. Here we went by Rail Road. We saw the Shrine & Holy Spring—the Church & obtained a good view of the Lakes. Here the Treaty of 1848 was made.⁷⁴

I saw something of Limantom & went once to see him & his lady. They were living very plainly. I was then under the impression his claims were just—but now I incline to a different view of the question.

My stay in the City was some 13 days & I used my time in seeing as much as possible of the place & of the people.

Tuesday 17 Nov. 1857

Off at 4. Passed the garita by the Penon causeway. We had bade adieu to our friends & especially McAlpin who was going back to Manzanillo. Instead we had however an American gentleman somewhat elderly—(a Dr.) who had lived in Northern Mexico & had his wife with him—a Mexican lady. The Dr. was a determined man—had a double barrelled shot loaded with buck shot—a Colt of Navy size & his lady even carried a fine shooter of small size so we did not feel weakened.

We passed out between Lake Chalco & Tezcuco—the country ris

Trouble was apprehended & Inge was for a while unwilling to go to sleep. He insisted on a watch being kept. At the conclusion of a day's travel I was generally ready for sleep by 9 & rolled off accordingly.

Wednesday 18 Novr. 1857 ~

We were up & off by 4 A.M. We found the country lefs inviting. The roads were dusty & very rough. In the course of the day we descended considerably in the afternoon. I should suppose some 3000 feet. The road down was very steep. I rode outside. We went dashing down & I was glad when we got to the bottom.

Mexican drivers are superior to American drivers. They have more horses to manage, more difficult roads & yet get along faster & better. At the brow of the hill we met a dense fog rolling up. This we were told was caused by a "Norther" in the Gulf. We were over 100 miles then from Vera Cruz. In the evening we struck the beautiful & fertile valley of Orizava. The mountain of Orizava we failed to see at all by reason of the fog.

About six we got into the city of Orizava a place with some 30,000 inhabitants. It rained & I did not walk about any.

Thursday 19t Novr. 1857 ~

We were off by 6 1/2 A.M. Went through a beautiful valley, but had mist & rain. We had another time going down mountains & came to Cordova where we breakfasted. This is a small town & I have only an imperfect recollection of it. We got a good breakfast there at 11.
In the evening we pafsed a Bridge which bore the marks of Cannon balls & a struggle for the mastery. Inge & the others said it was the celebrated National Bridge⁷⁵; but this I now doubt. We had now very bad roads. Towards the afternoon we passed a number of prisoners of the Church party who had been exiled by Comonfort. They were in carriages under a guard of perhaps a hundred horsemen with sabres, escopettes & lances. The officers eyed us keenly enough—anxious for their charge.

A little after we came to our dining place—a country road house & the prisoners came up soon after. They were permitted to step out & the guard drew up before the door in military array. I could not help feeling a good deal of sympathy for them & as we rode off we began to think their custodians were base enough to attack us that night.

Towards dusk (I was riding inside) the movements of horsemen we saw became suspicious & we were told at a stopping place to look out for a brush ahead. We watched out carefully.

By the afternoon we had got into the lowest plain of the terra caliente & the chapparel country. I saw two horsemen concealing themselves behind the chapparel. That satisfied me what we were to expect.

Accordingly when we were in half a mile of the "Loledad" our stopping place for the night—Patrick & our driver Jim (an American) sung out to us that a party of a dozen were ahead. It was very dark. Inge & Caperton had arranged previously that on approach of a party they should get out & fire from on foot & the others remain inside & fire from the stage. I did not like this plan much:—but made no objection.

On notice therefore, they had the stage stopped & fired on the robbers. These broke at first & were off in the gloom. Inge & Caperton got in & we were moving off when one of the robbers rode after us & in 3 yards of the stage fired at it. I was on the front seat under the light & it is strange that I especially got off. It was so close that I at first thought it was Patrick firing foolishly.

We soon got in to the Loledad & got supper & laid down to sleep. This was after 10 o'clock.

Friday 20th Novr. 1857

We started off at 2 A.M. riding through the chapparel & expecting every moment a renewal of the Attack. We kept a constant lookout. I on one side & Caperton on the other. It was fairly day light when we reached the terminus of the rail road. Here we had 12 miles to go to Vera Cruz.

Our car was an open & flat one—with a linen cover over head & at the sides. It was large enough to hold our party of 7 Americans, a lady & two or three others with the baggage. We concluded our troubles were over & dangers past, but Jim told us they sometimes stopped the car & robbed it. This only amused us & we were in great spirits at the idea of getting home.

We were riding in the car—laughing & talking at the rate of some 7 or 8 miles an hour. The car was drawn by two mules. We had gone 3 or 4 miles when my rifle went off by the mismanagement of the Dr. in whose cloak it caught. This served for fresh sport—when several shots were fired at us from the low chaparral or grass. I did not know at first that they were fired at us & the laugh was kept up.

A little further on there was more of it & it was kept up all the way to Vera Cruz. The balls pafsed near riddled the canvafs—hit the trunks. One made a hole in Patrick's hat—another grazed my ear & went so close to Inge that he thought he was hit.

It was wonderful how we all escaped. We were shot at about forty times at close distance & by persons in ambush. I sat on the front seat all the time; but got no mark for my pistol. I felt perfectly cool & the general behavior of the party was excellent. We were all glad to get in to Vera Cruz.⁷⁶ I was glad to see the water again. It looked like going home.

I got my ticket—a bath—breakfast & a nap. The steamer could not leave by reason of a "Norther." In the afternoon I took a walk to the beach. The waves were dashing furiously against the mole. The air was cool—fresh & the sea breeze very invigorating. Our steamer lay a mile or two out under the gun of the celebrated castle—San Juan de Ulloa.

Saturday 21st Novr. 1857 ~

We were notified pretty early in the morning that the steamer would go early & to get on at once. We were off in boats by 6 1/2 A.M. & 8 1/2 got underway in the Tennessee—Capt. Forbes.

We had fair weather & nothing out of the usual way. The "exiles" were on board & appeared to be a worthy & polished set of gentlemen. Among them was Genl. Pacheco⁷⁷, ex Prest. Salas⁷⁸ & Col. Juan Washington y Velase. With these I became well acquainted. Genl. Pacheco had been Governor of Guanaxuato & in the battle of Buena Vista captured several of our guns with his command. Col. Washington spoke English fluently. He was a gallant, manly gentleman, bore his misfortunes & the separation from his family cheerfully & won the esteem of us all. He had been a good deal in military service on the Rio Grande & was at Colima when the Revolution broke out. He was made its head & saved the city according to the testimony of the respectable foreigners there.

He told me his usual residence was Guadalaxara. He was the son of an English father who went from the U.S. to Mexico & married there a Mexican lady.

My intercourse with these gentlemen fully confirmed my unfavorable impressions of Comonfort.

⁷⁸General Mariano Salas had served briefly as provisional president of the country before Santa Anna's return to power in 1846.
Tuesday 24th Novr. 1857

On getting up I found a very sensible change in the atmosphere. We had entered the Mississippi (River) & Jack Frost had begun his reign. On either side lay the finest sugar plantations, the farm houses trees & outhouses—everything looked like home & was inexpressibly grateful to my feelings. The sugar cane had matured—whole fields standing. In others they were cutting & in most the work of making sugar was going on rapidly. The steam mills were sending up the white smoke in every direction & every thing denoted activity & cheerfulnefs.

We got up to New Orleans about 10 A.M. I had obtained a good view of the battleground of New Orleans. Went to the St. Charles & got the comforts of a Hotel.

I was much pleased with the City of New Orleans. It had a cheerful, neat look.

By 5 P.M. I got on board the Hiawatha bound for Cario, but we did not get off till late in the night. It was my first acquaintance with a high pressure steamboat & the Mississippi.

The next day I found out I had unluckily taken a slow boat—the slowest of the slow. The fare was bad & the company uninteresting except a Catholic Priest whom I found intelligent & agreeable.

On the "Louisiana Coast," as it is called, I was agreeably pleased with my Journey. Afterwards it was very monotonous. I was seven days getting to Cario. Here we pafsed the night.

On the morning of 2d Dec. (I think) we got off in the cars of the Central Rail Road bound for Pana—Ills. We went through the middle of Illinois. I saw a number of prairies & some good land—but the trip was very dull & the county devoid of fine scenery or interest. The towns had a vulgar parvenu aspect. At the junction of this Road with the St. Louis & Indianapolis connection I met Lt. R.H. Riddick travelling East. Also Gov. Polk⁷⁹ of Mo. with whom I became a little acquainted.

The route through Indiana was on a better rail road, but through a flat & uninteresting country. I went right through without stopping—

In the course of the day I met Col. Jeff Davis & lady travelling in the cars.

We got to the crossing of the Ohio in the night & got a good supper & warmed ourselves by the fire. We got the cars about ten & were off on the Baltimore & Ohio Rail Road. On the morning of 4 Dec. we were passing the beautiful scenery about Fairmont & got in to Breakfast at Cumberland. Here we had a treat & I eat extensively. After a while we came in sight of Martinsburg & here I recognized familiar scenes. By evening we got to the Relay⁸¹ & then to Washington. Riddick & I rode up & I was at home—where I found everybody well.

⁸¹ Relay House, Maryland, just outside Baltimore.